Bavaria – Munich and Garmisch

As it turns out, we haven’t done much sitting still since the last post.

We left you all last on the eve of a travel day, leaving Copenhagen for Munich and then the next day on to Garmisch in southern Germany. Yes, we are still getting over leaving Denmark and are sensitive that we may bore you with our many comparisons and references to all things Danish. But we know there are many wonderful adventures ahead so, Yay, for a good start.

Munich was celebrating “the anniversary of its foundation” (mid 1100’s sometime) which would be equivalent to our Independence Day. People flooded the streets of Munich, filling the plazas concert-style, with different bands in each plaza. Grown men, all ages, in their liederhosen, sweaty, happy, celebrating their Munich pride. We will reserve all judgement until Munich is sober and not in mid-festival. One night. In a hostel across the street from the train station. (The next sentence could go many different directions.)

Had to hit the Munich Hofbrau even though we were told that a local would prefer something less tourists and choose one of Munich’s very nice beer gardens. Pretzels as big as a frisbee (tasted fantastic!) and the beer; how can it taste this good?

Father’s Day brunch at a little French bistro in a Munich Hotel (best breakfast to date on the trip). For example, an actual frame of honey comb from a bee hive was displayed nicely next to the many exotic and homemade jams. Why don’t I have a picture of that? Not fancy, just Sunday.

Graham is actually sitting on the floor of our hostel room. This must be what happens, one becomes desensitized. Watch, next I’ll take a picture, and proceed to actually post it, of the family at a lovely fountain or something while Graham picks up a half-smoked cigarette butt from the ground and asks for a light. (Denmark only sells cigarette packets with cancer victims’ photographs.)

Munich station (after brunch). See how happy and relaxed everyone looks. Read the board, find the track, it’s all good. Little did we know our next travel day was going to be completely void of relaxation, but I’m getting ahead of myself. That’s a story for another day.

I present to you,

Garmisch

The Zugspitze, Germany’s highest  peak. We can see this from our little window and from points all over Garmisch. We loved the spirit of the mountains, huge blue sky and rugged, intense peaks. This will prove to be good pre-party exposure for what is to come in the Swiss Alps.

Neuschwanstein Castle (for real)

Two castles in this photo. Totally wonderful day of history lessons with our tour guide, Jake. We are all still talking about the mystery of King Ludwig II who built Neuschwanstein. Was he crazy? Was he shot? Did he drown?

Other than proximity to a few highly swagalicious* castles, and the sordid history to go with, this particular Bavarian region has some other little tricks: host of the 1936 Winter Olympics (yep, THOSE Olympics), impressive hiking like through a lovely mountain gorge and fabulous recreational mountain area with exhaustive summer and winter sports. Garmisch had such an unusual mix of tourists, mostly older European couples, totally tricked-out mountain bikers… and the Reichels.

Aidan got somewhere in the neighborhood of 26,000 steps on his Fitbit the day we hiked to an intermediary peak, half of it vertical. Temps were in the 90’s that day. (Denmark would have had a breeze.)

This is the original ski jump from the 1936 Olympics. I didn’t listen to the answer of ‘is it still used today?’ because the previous statement had just been ‘hitler sat here and watched the events’ so I have no interesting information to impart. We walked past the ski jump and Olympic village on our trek through the gorge and then up to the peak. Rode the gondola down. wahooo!

Why don’t I have any photos of the luge riding? We are sampling the luge offerings kind of like wine- tasting. Each purveyor has its own feel and track layout and design. One wove its track amid the goat’s pasture. No helmets. No seatbelts. No waiver.

Among other luge highlights, Graham brushed the (unmarked) electric fence for the goats that ran an inch from the track (it was dialed to the heifer setting).  The shock ran up his arm, transferred into my hip where his elbow was resting and shot out my gluteal into the seat of the luge cart. “HaHa! Mom shot lightning out her butt!” How does one NOT raise their voice about that? We hooped and hollered every luge ride… with or without the application of electroshock therapy. (Decidedly not Danish.)

Nope. That’s not even Bavarian, is it?

Partnachlan Gorge

Little town of Garmisch nestled way back in the distance. That’s a shocker to see how far we hiked out of town. We enjoyed this town.

Pretzels with every meal, what’s not to love?

If it weren’t for the bread, insanely good bread, cheese, beer and chocolate (discovering chocolate late in life) I am certain I would have lost 20 pounds by now from the hiking, walking and sweating. This is different from our introductory European week (Denmark, shall I even say her name?) in which vegetables were featured prominently. Bavaria was a treat for its crazy good beer but also wieners, wursts and brats. We loved our evening strolls, kids loved the gelato ritual.

I am developing an opinion about the coffee however.

Our inn, Gasthof Fraundorfer, on an ancient cobblestoned street, Ludwigstrasse. Very traditional and authentic Bavaria. This is actually popular cultural restaurant first and foremost that happens to also have guest rooms. Nightly accordion music in the dining room with drindl and liederhosen customary. For real.

This is the window of our top floor room. Top floor means used to be the attic, I think. It’s been in the same family, operated continuously, for 8 generations. Do not ask questions.

Gathering out front our last morning before we clomp down to the train station.

Last memory…

This little taxidermy home job, while disturbing, gave me hope.  Maybe the Bavarian people have a sense of humor. Note: swan feet, squirrel tail, miniature antlers, and human teeth. This creation was prominently featured in the window of the main pharmacy which somehow makes it less a prank and more a work of art, but is still wrong.

Off to Switzerland!