Copenhagen

    Copenhagen is all about “highlights” and so am I! From the Danish National Museum to restaurant menus, highlights are featured everywhere – that’s cheery.
Getting bikes organized
We rode to another part of Copenhagen to visit a lovely park-like cemetery (that’s an oxymoron maybe) where people have picnics amid the grave stones of Soren Kierkegaard, Hans Christian Andersen and Niels Bohr to name just a few of the historic and celebrated figures buried there. The bike riding reality is no joke in Copenhagen, like other European cities. No one has cars so they commute and have rush hour traffic just like cars in New York. As with cars in New York, you do not take crossing the street lightly with these commuting cyclists. So why, you may ask, would we rent 6 bikes and join the raging torrent of bikes flowing through the streets of Copenhagen? It looked quaint. It seemed a great way to cover a lot of ground. We had been on our feet constantly for twelve hours both of the previous 2 days, cycling had to be a welcome alternative. We were lucky, very lucky. No one was divorced or otherwise injured but we did our share of disruption, a caravan of 6 with inadequate arm signals and illiterate danish street etiquette. Unlike NYC, no one swore at us, crashed in to us just to prove a point or even raised a voice at our bafoonery. We love Denmark for this if nothing else. The sheer loving tolerance of our assholishness, innocent though it was, is what is at the root of their national values and thus their pride. We learned on our first day that no one raises their voices in Denmark. Kids don’t. Parents don’t. Dogs don’t. Drunk twenty somethings don’t. Try as we might, and we really tried, Reichels just about fit in. I think with practice we could be fantastic Danes.
Trains got us out to explore Denmark

Viking ship museum – you may have heard, we all have Viking roots, turns out.
Kids really got into it. The museum has an incredible collection but it could be so much more. Thinking they need a smithsonian visit. Could have been there all day and in the small town of Roskilde, the original seat of power for Denmark centuries ago.
What we know of the Vikings is a fraction of their story – they were and are a bit impressive! Sank 5 ships in roskilde bay to prevent imminent attack, discovered in 1950s. That is the impetus for the museum. The replica Viking ship (and modern day re-enacters) did a reenactment sail through Scandinavia. And for the record, they now let everyone climb on their exhibits in Roskilde. Just kidding, not everybody, just the obvious descendants. Actually, they offer a sail tour two times a day on the replicas where you actually have to work like a Viking sailor. Hmm. Our 4 Vikings don’t need any encouragement. Pass on that, thank you. We have many more days of adventure ahead and watched our little Vikings decimate the yard games instead.
Hamlet’s Castle, actually called Kronborg, but Shakespeare’s setting for Hamlet. A strategic defensive castle and not many frills. host Shakespeare’s skits daily.
Kronborg tower steps, hand hewn stone from 1600s.
Collected harbor trash made up this sculpture. Aidan, not fully appreciating the art form, thought there had to be more to it… “is it in here?”
Another train ride into the countryside. This is the fancy palace built by King Christian IV, and later inspired Versailles. Wow… now serves as the national treasury of art. Cute ancient yet spritely docents drive the little motor boat around the moat to drop you off and help you navigate the “highlights”- critical when you have an hour to get through the damn thing.

 

    Roskilde (same day as Viking museum) church. Viking king named Roar, a bigwig for Denmark in 1500s, converted to Christianity and built a timber-constructed church. As the first seat of power for Denmark other kings built, rebuilt, expanded the church – it is a crazy mix of domes and spires and very tall. School kids were having summer school as we passed (their English was better than ours). We did not ask them what they thought of US politics.

    The boys, in our flat on the top floor of an ancient Danish building.
“Fart” = speed. But we can’t stop giggling; it’s everywhere…
TiVoli Gardens!! Wow! This photo looks like a mini Taj Mahal mock up and does not do justice to this incredible amusement park in the heart of Copenhagen!! It’s the 2nd oldest amusement park in the world and although it has retained the old world charm it is a relaxing delight met with the latest exciting rides (another oxymoron) with something for everyone. We were taken by its cleanliness and charm, never recognizing the vortex effect until we emerged 6 hours later.

    Wait, where are the kids?
Island of Hven!! Since we were so close to Sweden we did a day trip to an idyllic island.
Hven (conveniently, rhymes with Sven) has changed hands many times over the past several hundred years and today survives mostly on tourism but it’s farming roots continue. Really, it was surreal.

Upon arrival, right off the ferry onto a dirt road, we felt like time travelers. Until we came upon the bike rentals. Over 1000 bikes we counted. The island can handle the nearly 5000 daily visitors in the peak season because of this bike rental outfit. I imagine the 450 year round, permanent residents, hide when they hear the ferry dock.
This’ll be nothing like Copenhagen bike riding, piece of cake… we got this. Ian promptly landed in a ditch. Piper met up with a tree… We raised our voices a little bit.
Part of the Reichel peloton. Don’t they look GREAT?! In time for our ferry back to Copenhagen, we circumnavigated the whole island, stopped for ice cream, had an incredible lunch during a torrential downpour and made some friends.
Piper reminded us that swans, the Danish national bird, mate for life. We loved finding this little family as a nice salute. Thank you, Denmark!! We love you!

6 thoughts on “Copenhagen”

  1. Looking good, Reichels!!! I was in Tivloi gardens 30+ yrs ago during a soccer tournament (we lost…). Looks like you were in Copenhagen for Father’s Day–not sure if they celebrate it there or if they even have fathers in Europe…–but happy Dad’s day from the states, Taylor! (such a good name, I should name my daughter that…) Glad that no one is hurt or divorced. Have fun! Love Beaker

  2. Talk about taking advantage of an adventure – phew, you have been busy! Thanks for keeping us in the loop. Don’t come back to the States thinking you can no longer raise your voice….
    love you!

  3. Thank you for the pictures and commentary, Julie. It looks like you are all having a wonderful time. I look forward to the next installment!

  4. Ah, Copenhagen — so much fun! These are great highlights. I want to go live on Hven — though it sounds as though they need to build a wall. 🙂

  5. Hi this is Piper. “Meeting up with a tree” is an understatement. I’m STILL finding bruises.

  6. I think the Danes must have had vocal chord surgery at birth. How is it possible to be so civilized??? Hypothetical. I’m starting to worry that you guys might not be returning to the states…..

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